The anchorage in Coll was busy but we were able to find a spot close to the landing steps in water too shallow for most. The walk ashore along the middle of the island was in sweltering heat but worth it for the views.
One way to do it
Next day we sailed on for Tobermory. On approach the colourful buildings along the waterfront sparkled in the sunshine. Once secured we watched as two tall ships went alongside the marina, Pelican of London and Klevia which was in Dungarvan for the Food Festival. The first mate aboard the Pelican was Dungarvan man Eoghan Burke and we enjoyed a good chat with him about life onboard Pelican. There are plenty of mooring buoys here and the small marina has been extended a few times in recent years. At Tobermory it was too hot ashore for much walking . But the marina washing machine got good use instead and believe me it was not before time.
Tobermory marina where the water was filling at a rate of 2 1/2 litres per minute. Lady Belle has a tank capacity of 300 litres . You can do the maths yourself. The water maker would have been as quick.
Next day we needed the south going tide in the Sound of Mull as there wasn’t a puff of wind. The mainsail remained in the sail cover. Once down the 15 nm Sound, Oban was visible 5 nm ahead. We turned south into the Firth of Lorn with no definite plans for the night until we spotted an anchorage called Puilladobhrain at the north end of Seil island. We read that it was Scotland’s best kept secret and one of the most photographed anchorages with perfect shelter, good holding, splendid views and a cosy pub 1K over the grassy hill. It was too tempting not to stop. Again with our draft we were able to anchor at the top end close to the landing place. While we were going ashore in the dinghy a yacht was about to pass Lady Belle looking for an anchor spot when it suddenly turned around and came a bit too close to LB for our liking. Those aboard obviously didn’t know much about Ovni’s and it’s shallow draft with the keel lifted. The walk over rough ground was worthwhile and not only for Tigh an Trish i.e. the cosy pub. The view from the world famous Bridge over the Atlantic by the pub was also very scenic. Though the river Clachan Bridge would be a more correct name as the Atlantic is some miles to the North.
Tigh an Trish (House of the Trousers) named when British government after the Jacobite rebellion tried to suppress Gaelic culture banning kilts, tartans, bagpipes and language. Islanders heading for work on the mainland would change into trousers here and back into kilts when returning home.
Lady Belle and Clare at Puilladobhrain meaning Otter Pool. Only a family of Grouse were spotted . We were making use of the bird identification app Merlin that Johnny Whelan recommended when he called to see us in Westport a few weeks ago.
Our next stop was Crinan but the passage there was not by the direct route. Nope…that would be too easy for the skipper. Most cruising sailors will have heard of Dorus Mor, the Gulf of Corryvreckan, the Sounds of Luing, Cuan & Easdale. Easdale, Cuan and Dorus were today’s challenge. Easdale came first. Located 200meters from the south of Seil island the sound is narrow, shallow and the perches looked rusty and ready to fall into the sea. With the tide we were quickly through. Easdale is the smallest inhabited island in Scotland with about 60 residents, car free and used to be the centre of Scotland’s slate industry. Cuan Sound was next where the sailing directions warn of 7 KT tides and dangers that are regularly re-discovered by the incautious. Safely through Cuan we headed further to the Dorus Mor. Here it reads that the tide can reach 8kts at this tidal gate and expect eddie’s, whirlpools, choppy waves and overalls. We picked a good day to transit all three. Phew. Crinan was gorgeous in the sunshine. We didn’t see any boats transiting the canal that day as we explored along the tow path.
The following day we headed for Gigha Island at the southern end of the Sound of Jura. Gigha again is a lovely island with crystal clear water, white sandy beaches and plenty to do ashore.
It was to be Lady Belle’s last stop in Scotland. We had a fantastic summer cruising the Inner Hebrides with endless sunshine and light/ moderate winds which gave endless options. Lady Belle’s 2026 Cruise is one to remember.